This dense yet refined red is hallmarked by saturated flavors of black cherry, black currant and sandalwood. Reveals earth, mineral and oak spice elements, which add depth as this plays out on the tightly wound finish. Compact and brooding for now, yet with ample fruit and a chalky feel on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2046. — B.S.

(94-96 points) 80 year old vines, 100% whole bunch vinification, one third new wood,13.2% alcohol, the first vines to be picked. Rich deep crimson colour. The bouquet suggests power but the detail must wait. A very rich ripe ball of fruit in the mouth, succulent, more a white soil style of Bonnes Mares. Very complete, with just a fraction of torrefaction to add character at the end.

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a fragrant, perfumed and classier bouquet than Hudelot-Baillet's Bonnes-Mares: well-defined with clever use of stems. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. Lovely symmetry and poise build towards a linear yet intense finish. It will require 4-5 years to subsume the oak, but there is great potential, and it has a sense of statesmanlike class. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting. -- Neal Martin