(94-96 points) The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of wild berries and plums mingled with peonies, orange rind and exotic spices. Full-bodied, rich and muscular, it's deep and powerful, with imposing reserves of concentration, while remaining vibrant, even fine-boned despite its substance and plenitude. - WK

Monsieur Mugnier commented about his Bonnes-Mares, “each year it gets just a little bit better, which is probably a reflection of the age of the vines, and maybe someday I will make one as good as my neighbor!” He was, of course, referring to Christophe Roumier next door. This bottling has shown consistently more depth in the last decade’s worth of vintages and is truly a great wine these days, with the young 2020 being no exception. The bouquet is lovely, offering up scents of black cherries, plum, dark chocolate, pigeon, woodsmoke, a complex base of chalky soil tones and a deft framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very refined in profile out of the blocks, with an excellent core, latent soil signature just waiting to burst forth once the lovely fruit recedes a bit, ripe, buried tannins and a long, tangy and beautifully precise finish. This is going to be an excellent bottle of Bonnes-Mares in time, but it will probably need some extended cellaring before it really delivers on all of its potential.

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a dense nose, a mixture of red and black fruit, camphor, and touches of violet petals, still quite tight at this very early stage. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet ripe tannins, quite plush, a little grainy in texture with a candied, cassis and black plum finish. It still does not muster the harmony of the Les Fuées by direct comparison.