St. Joseph is often declared to be a second tier appellation in the Northern Rhone, but here’s proof that it can play in the first league of the region. This has an incredibly deep nose of ripe blackberries, other forest berries and smoke. On the barely full-bodied palate it is simultaneously rich, focused and extremely complex with very graceful fine tannins and stacks of stony minerality at the breathtakingly fresh finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. - Stuart Pigott

(93-95 points) Still in barrels at the time of my visit, Jean Gonon blended a representative sample for me to review. The 2020 Saint Joseph is classic Gonon, with a complex nose of crushed stone, violets, cherries and blueberries; a palate that's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and tannic yet silky; and a finish that's vibrant and long. - JC

(94+ points) Showing consistently, and certainly giving some perspective with regards to the 2021, the 2020 Saint Joseph is gorgeously rich and textured, medium to full-bodied aromas and flavors of ripe black fruits, roasted herbs, and earth, floral nuances. Despite its wealth of fruit, there’s plenty of structure here, and if anything, it’s showing more structure and tannic grip today. It deserves 3-4 years and will evolve gracefully over the following decade with ease. This is a brilliant Saint Joseph.

The refined 2020 Saint-Joseph hits the palate with great concentration and a juicy core of red fruits. Pencil shavings, crushed violets and cedar add more layers. Maintaining spot-on balance and neatly framed by polished tannins, the 2020 Saint-Joseph is classic Gonon. It is less ripe and flamboyant than the 2018 or 2019, but offers more substance than the 2021, concludes with lifting energy on the savory finish. -- Nicolas Greinacher