Ripe plummy fruit of exceptional purity, suggestions of mineral, smoke and wild roses. Despite the perfumed, ethereal aromas, the wine is broad-shouldered, tannic and powerful. This truly has the substance to age for decades. Domaine Roumier farms 1.6ha of Bonnes-Mares spread over four parcels. There is a mix of the white marl ('terres blanches') at the top of the slope and the red clay ('terres rouges'). Most of the fruit is fermented as whole clusters, extraction is gentle, and the amount of new wood is modest.

(96-98 points) Rich purple, with energy on the nose, more black fruit, a little less easy to read than the flamboyant Ruchottes. Two thirds whole bunch just visible. Showing the duality of this vineyard. More black than red, nothing in any way cooked, deep long and sultry, some comparison with Bussière but a much greater depth of generous fruity and of course very long indeed. Going to be spectacular I think. A really classic structure with a brilliant aftertaste.

(95+ points) The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a reductive nose, though behind that, there is a smorgasbord of attractive dark berry fruit tinged with black olives. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, touches of licorice and some elements of overripe fruit towards the finish. But it's an enjoyable Grand Cru, a little "sexier" than its peers, and it improves with time in the glass. There's real sophistication locked up in this Bonnes-Mares, but it needs time. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting. -- Neal Martin