The name of this Bibi Graetz Testamatta 2020 means ‘crazy head’, perhaps referring to Bibi’s passionate pursuit of old vine Sangiovese. This wine is a clear, transparent, ruby color and has a very appealing nose of delicate, pure, red fruits like red cherry and wild strawberries wrapped in spice and light salty notes from sea breezes. The nose is charming and alluring. On the palate it is very Burgundy-like in weight and texture with a fine silkiness to the texture but it has very Sangiovese-like tannins. The wine is round and silky with a juicy freshness and fine but firm, savory tannins that linger with bitter cherry and sea salt flavors to the finish. A graceful and characterful version of Sangiovese.

The addition of a further 12ha of vines – the first instance of owned rather than leased vineyards for Bibi Graetz – saw production in 2020 leap to around 150,000 bottles, and the wine was made in the new winery in Fiesole too. However, Bibi explains that 2020 was ‘not an easy vintage...the first of three hot vintages‘. It has a darker character than the 2015, with dusty red and black cherry aromas and hints of balsam and chocolate. Creamy, velvety and vertical with a lovely cherry character and an earthy background, it has plenty of freshness working the sides of the cheeks, but needs more time to uncoil.

Beautiful, fresh aromas of sour cherries, orange peel and lemon bush. Medium-bodied with firm, racy acidity and ultra-fine tannins that add brightness and energy to the wine. This is definitely following the new wave of crunchy, vivid Tuscany sangioveses, which emphasize drinkability and transparency. Lighter than past vintages. Drink now or hold.

Production was greatly reduced in this vintage, down to about 53,000 bottles. The Bibi Graetz 2020 Testamatta is brilliant and vertical with a terrific sense of purity. The bouquet opens to tart cherry and cassis. The wine is vertical and lifted, and the acidity is nicely highlighted. The year 2020 was when Bibi Graetz bought a former hotel that he has since turned into his winery and home. - Monica Larner

Dusty, floral and lifted with flinty crushed stone, peppery herbs and tart raspberry, the 2020 Rosso Testamatta makes itself known in the glass. This is finessed and pure in style, combining bright acidity and minerals with wild strawberry fruit, all carried across seamlessly silky textures. While structured, the 2020 leaves the palate completely refreshed as a web of fine-grained tannins frames pretty rose and sweet spice nuances. What a darling. I expect that bottle age will bring more flesh to the palate, but even without it, the 2020 Testamatta, a varietal Sangiovese, is gorgeous.

Scorched earth and pure sun-ripened fruit are at the forefront of the 2020 Testamatta, with ripe red cherry, tarragon, and toasted cedar. Medium bodied, with a mineral and lifted texture, it offers fine tannins and a citrus tinged finish. A razor edge of acidity drives the wine forward and creates a linear feel. It will certainly benefit for more time in bottle to ease into its full potential and can be enjoyed over the next 15 or so years.

The subtle nose on this wine releases oak notes first, then cherries, soy sauce, herbs, pencil shavings and eraser, and finally a little orange peel. Graphite and soil come through on the palate alongside more cherries, orange and dried herbs. Tannins hold their shape but let the fruit speak, while acid cuts right down the tongue. — Danielle Callegari