Aromas of al dente cherries with citrus peel. Flowers, such as red roses, also come through clearly. Medium to full body, with open grain tannins that caress like cashmere. Chewy, fresh and vivid. Give this three to five years to come together. Try after 2027.

The lowest of Ricasoli's three crus, CeniPrimo is from a site at 300m in the Arbia valley on fluvial soils. As a consequence, it's a darker, earthier style compared to the other two crus, gripper and also with stunning acidity. There's a touch of creaminess evident in the background, with touches of earth, pepper and wood . It's very sapid and vertical, with balsamic freshness and lovely purity, but definitely needs more time to show at its best. Labelled as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Gaiole.

The Barone Ricasoli 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Brolio CeniPrimo opens to a medium-dark saturated appearance and a slightly more concentrated feel that translates into aromas of cherry liqueur, blackberry, spice and sweet earth. This wine carries a little more fruit weight and textural richness thanks to lower-elevation vineyards and silty riverbed soils. However, this wine also offers a spot of vibrant freshness on the close, and that makes a big difference in a warm vintage like this. It remains meticulously balanced throughout. Production is 11,000 bottles.

A youthful and reflective ruby into magenta, the 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione CeniPrimo opens to layered aromas of cedar, kirsch, fresh leather, candied raspberry, and sweet licorice. Medium to full-bodied, it’s refined and plush on the palate, with a velvety texture that never feels heavy, clean, balanced acidity, and a long finish. This is a gorgeous, very high-quality offering to enjoy over the next 15 to 20 years. - Audrey Frick

A complex, focused red marked by enticing aromas of cherry, black currant, violet, mineral and spices. Dry and bracing, with a firm, mineral-infused finish. Shows fine balance and a lingering aftertaste, where the fruit, mineral and savory elements converge. Best from 2025 through 2043. 916 cases made, 350 cases imported.

CeniPrimo is a 15.7-acre plot near the southern tip of Gaiole, its silty-clay soils derived from an ancient river terrace. The wine feels compact and coiled, its flavors of fresh and dried cherry framed by broad, powerful tannins that are cool and ferrous. Pinpricks of salinity brighten the rich and creamy texture and balance the warm spice notes.

The 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione CeniPrimo is a potent, driving wine. White pepper, cedar and dried herbs lend notable aromatic presence to this mid-weight Gran Selezione. I would give this a few years in bottle to see if it softness. Today, the 2020 is a bit nervous.