The 2020 Côtes du Jura Savagnin Antide aged for 4 years under topped-up conditions. Opening with marked reduction, it needs time to open up. After a few moments of aeration, the 2020 unwinds with perfumed baked apple, dried chamomile, straw and a suggestion of oyster shell. Medium- to full-bodied and energetic, the 2020 is built around vibrant Savagnin acidity and packs a beguiling austerity on the mid-palate. It finally winds down with impressive length on the refined finish. Lock this away for two more years—if you can resist the temptation. -- Nicolas Greinacher