Forget the over-extractions of the past decades; Rabajà from Bruno Rocca is today aged in both barrique and oak vessels, resulting in power and grace combined. The 2019 here is more concentrated and refined compared to the leaner (yet very good) 2018. Restrained aromas of liquorice, tar, black pepper, watermelon intensity and minerality in depth, with a slightly herbal note, are followed by a feminine palate with a peach skin character. The delicacy of the fruit is deliciously woven with lifted tension and very elegant tannins.

The 2019 Barbaresco Rabajà shows more heft and concentration next to the Currà. The site has white and gray marl soils. This wine reveals a beautiful bouquet with dark currant, plum, iron ore and evident spice with hints of tobacco leaf. You also detect a hint of white pepper. This more robust style gives Rabajà bigger pairing potential with meat dishes and some of the traditional wintery foods of Piedmont, like stracotto di Fassona (braised beef). - Monica Larner

The 2019 Barbaresco Rabaja comes across as quite delicate and shy. I had hoped the 2019 would open more over the last year, but that has not happened, at least not yet. Even so, there is good energy and plenty of drive. The 2019 is marked by a distinctly red-toned fruit profile. A whole range of floral, savory and citrus accents add complexity through to the finish. This fruit came in on October 16, late by today's standards. • By Antonio Galloni on September 2022

This features tangy cherry and raspberry flavors up front, giving way to eucalyptus, menthol and stony mineral accents as it evolves on the palate. Succulent yet elegant, with a dusting of tannins on the precision finish. Best from 2026 through 2043. — B.S.