An equally restrained but wonderfully elegant, pure and very floral suffused nose displays essence of red and dark raspberry, plum and rose petal. There is terrific delineation and an abundance of minerality on the bigger yet finer flavors that possess a sophisticated mouthfeel and evident power on the moderately austere, complex and well-balanced finale. As is usual for Rugiens, this is quite firm and will need extended patience. One to strongly consider.

The 2019 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru has a much fresher bouquet than Olivier Leflaive's Epenots (tasted alongside), with a finely-delineated mixture of red and black fruit, undergrowth and light smoky scents. The palate is medium-bodied, fresh and tensile, with a slightly citric opening, perhaps initially missing a bit of depth and complexity but retaining tension all the way through to the finish. This really blossoms in the glass, revealing that complexity and elegance that prompts me to raise my assessment. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting. - Neal Martin