Fresh berry and citrus notes on the nose, together with leafy aromas. Medium-bodied with a linear start to the palate, followed by a medium build of grainy tannin. A lighter structure this year, but there’s some good focus and drive. Needs time to even out. Try from 2024.

The 2018 Barolo Cannubi is another terrific wine in this range from Einaudi. There is an effortless, gracious quality to the Cannubi that is impossible to miss. Expressive aromatics meld into a core of creamy, exquisitely layered Cannubi red-toned fruit. Sweet red cherry, red plum, rose petal, mint and blood orange emerge, but only with great reluctance. The 2018 is pretty closed right now, but that won't be an issue in another few years' time. • By Antonio Galloni on November 2021