A contemporary classic by which to measure Argentine Malbec, the 2018 As Bravas Malbec is a spectacular wine in every regard. It derives from a 1.7-hectare parcel of ungrafted vines planted in Cordón El Cepillo's colluvial limestone soils and contains 5% co-planted Sémillon. It was fermented in concrete pools with 30% whole clusters and underwent a 23-day maceration before maturing for fully 64 months in a 100-year-old Italian foudre. From the first pour, there is a quietly commanding quality to the nose, which ceaselessly evolves around a dark-fruited core and myriad savory aromas of dried spices, charcoal, ash, licorice, fresh herbs and violets. The palate is seemingly endlessly layered, combining a dense, staining texture with sophisticated understatement and supreme elegance. It culminates with an incredibly long, impactful, concentrated and captivatingly weightless finish, further elongated by a sturdy graphite-laden core and ultra-refined tannins that continuously swell. This is a timeless wine of symphonic balance that should effortlessly deliver over two decades of drinking pleasure.- Matthew Luczy

A field blend with 5% Semillon fermented 100% whole-cluster in concrete, the intriguing 2018 Malbec As Bravas Cordon El Cepillo is then put in older foudres for 64 months, with another year in bottle before release. Raisiny dried fruit coats a medium-bodied, textural core of energy and ferrous, herbal intensity, the acidity keeping it fresh in the glass. The current release, it should continue to be excellent through 2038 if not longer.

The 2018 Malbec As Bravas Cordón El Cepillo includes 5% Sémillon. Concentrated yet agile, it opens with red fruit and tertiary notes from aging—vanilla and soft floral remnants—with sustained energy. The palate is smooth in texture, with grip, chalk and a slightly dark character. The 2018 is complex and compact. - By Joaquín Hidalgo