The steep red sandstone slopes of the Höllenpfad have produced a lovely wine here in spite of the drought-affected 2018 vintage. It has some grip and texture at this stage, with plenty of dry, refreshing salinity providing a backbone for the gentle pear and tangy apple and lime flavours to lean on. Its 6.2g/l of residual sugar does a fine job of filling out the palate without bringing unnecessary sweetness. Barrel sample.

The 2018 Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling Trocken is extremely flinty and pure on the nose. Lush but filigreed and refined on the palate, this is a medium-bodied and crystalline, straight and elegant dry Riesling with a remarkably long and tensioned finish. Tasted at the domain in July 2019.- SR

Smoky black tea and piquant pink peppercorn on the nose go on to stimulatingly accept juicy apple on a firm palate. Smokiness and piquancy predictably carry into the sustained finish, happily accompanied by generous juiciness and a mouthwatering lick of salt. I’m beginning to get a better sense for the ways of Höllenpfad Riesling after having had an opportunity to taste a couple of them at 3–5 years of age. So while this 2018’s relative generosity – which is not typical for the site – renders it lovely for current consumption, I would definitely recommend holding some for later. (For more about Höllenpfad, a fascinating and historically renowned sandstone site, consult my note on the Dönnhoff vintage 2014 Riesling from that site.) -- David Schildknecht

Prominent acidity flows through this white, but white peach, daisy and cardamom flavors are present enough to create harmony. Silky, focused and firm overall, but shows charm, with sage and mineral notes on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2032. 156 cases imported. — AZ