A cooler, more restrained and more deeply pitched nose features notes of newly turned earth, underbrush, the sauvage and wild dark berries. There is excellent size, weight and muscle to the very rich yet well-detailed bigger-bodied flavors that display even better power on the youthfully austere and ever-so-mildly rustic finale. This is very LSJ in character and a wine to consider if you have the patience to cellar it for at least a decade.

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru offers attractive brambly black fruit mixed with truffle and sage on the nose. This is well focused and delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit laced with spice, a pinch of white pepper with a fine grip on the finish. Worth seeking out. - NM