A perfumed and much more floral-suffused nose speaks of white peach, lemon rind and grilled nuts. The succulent, intense and stony middle weight flavors possess a taut muscularity before terminating in a bitter lemon suffused and bone-dry finish. This too is most impressive for its level and particularly for the outstanding depth.

While my tasting at the domaine was postponed by France's second COVID-19 lockdown, I sacrificed a bottle from my cellar to take a first look at Raphaël Coche's 2018 Meursault Village. The wine is very promising indeed, unwinding in the glass with aromas of struck match, crisp orchard fruit and citrus oil, complemented by subtle hints of praline and sesame. Medium to full-bodied, with impressive cut and tension in this often rather open-knit vintage, it's elegantly textural and nicely concentrated, with tangy acids and a youthfully chalky finish. Expect it to put on weight with some time in bottle. I'm looking forward to getting acquainted with the rest of the 2018 Coche-Dury portfolio in the near future. - WK