The grand vin at this domaine, the clos in question is positioned next to the cellars, on the left bank of the Vienne. The vines, aged between 70 and 80 years, are rooted into the calcareous soils of the slope. This vintage appears glossy and concentrated in the glass, dark but with a fresh raspberry-red rim. The nose is also dark and focused, filled with brooding scents of toasted black olive, currant, smoke and charcoal, alongside the freshness of green peppercorn and little touches of mint. In short, this has a really beautiful aromatic composition, dark yet also minty fresh. The palate feels cool, sinewy and similarly fresh, in a much tauter style than I found when I tasted this from barrel, but no less convincing for that. Dense yet tense, savoury, beautifully formed, with a frame of tight tannins and fresh acidity, this is just delicious. It remains taut and composed right through the finish. A real Chinon tour de force – in short, simply brilliant. It has a great future, lasting many years, ahead of it. The alcohol on the label is 14.5%.

The 2018 Chinon Clos de la Dioterie is richly fruited, reflecting the warmth of the vintage, and soft and mouth-filling despite not being heavy. There's baked fruit here, suggesting a combination of black currant, red cherry, cedar and spice. The tannins are structured and textured, showing this wine's intent, but it's all very well handled – those tannins are both resolved and incredibly chalky. This is a lengthy, serious wine with sinew. The vintage might be evident in the high alcohol and warm profile, but the class of the site is also indisputable.