Light aromas of honeysuckle, sea salt, white peach and nectarine show on the nose of this classic bottling, from a 2,200-foot-high vineyard. There is a strong streak of limestone flavor to the sip, with warmer hints of white peach and toast. MATT KETTMANN

At 670m, Calera’s limestone-rich vineyards in the Gavilan Mountain range of the Mount Harlan AVA sits 40km from Monterey Bay – perfect conditions for growing Burgundian varieties. Aged in 100% French oak of which one-third is new, this wine is an exciting rendition of California Chardonnay. Immediately bright, offering lemon cream, pear, straw and almond aromas. The satin-textured palate is redolent of yellow apple, pear and candied lemon peel, with vanilla oak and crushed stone minerality before a mouthcoating toasted almond finish.

The 2018 Chardonnay Mt. Harlan is a solid step up over the Viognier and offers a classy bouquet of spiced apple, white flowers, and brioche, with a terrific sense of chalky minerality. Medium-bodied and elegant, with a vibrant, pure texture, it's beautifully done and a serious Chardonnay to enjoy over the coming 7-8 years.

The 2018 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan) is bright, focused and translucent. A wine of striking character, the Mt. Harlan Chardonnay captures the essence of this rugged site in its savory complexity. In 2018, the Mt. Harlan is a bit lighter than it usually is, with a distinctly airy feel, and yet it has plenty of personality. Dried pear, mint, citrus oil, sage and dried flowers are some of the notes that develop over time. • By Antonio Galloni on September 2020

A sunny wine, this estate-grown chardonnay starts off golden and wheaty, with scents of biscuits and green apple. The flavors are slightly broader, and the wine feels rich, but in texture and tone it becomes dramatically tense. It’s passion-fruit lean; for aguachile shrimp. —P.J.C. (680 cases)