The 2017 Felseneck Grosses Gewächs is yet another utterly brilliant young wine. The nose soars from the glass in a youthfully complex blend of tart orange, pink grapefruit, blood orange, spring flowers, a beautiful base of salty slate minerality, a touch of petrol and a gentle topnote of wild yeasts. On the palate the wine is full, pure and again electric with ripe acidity this year, with a rock solid core, laser-like focus and great cut and grip on the complex, long and utterly seamless finish. This is pure magic.

Deep and dark in the nose, but blessed with ravishing, tart stone-fruit character on the palate that is almost perfectly balanced by the intense mineral acidity. Enormously long and surprisingly charming finish for a Schäfer-Fröhlich wine. Huge aging potential. Drink or hold.

Savory notes of earth and stone introduce this wine, but with patience there's loads of tangerine, pear and orange blossom notes to be found, too. Dry and moderately full bodied, it offers piercing citrus flavors edged by steel and crushed mineral. It's a wine that's likely to drink better from 2022 and continue to improve for decades. ANNA LEE C. IIJIMA

Very minerally and intense, with an impressive array of flavors, showing great cut to the dried apple, lemon-lime and star fruit notes. Dried herbal details show midpalate, leading to a finish that lingers with roasted pineapple and rich, spicy accents. A stunner. Best from 2023 through 2034. 500 cases made. — AZ

94+ Super clear and flinty on the stony and herbal-scented but still reductive and even untamed nose, the 2017 (Bockenau) Felseneck Riesling GG is a rich and powerful, pretty intense and persistent Riesling with a long and powerful, very salty and elegant, highly promising finish. This is a very deep and tensioned Riesling with lots of power but also finesse and elegance. Promising. Tasted in July 2019. - SR