A fist of late summer cherries, raspberry and bilberry fruits set out their stall, all with the juicy character that confirms, even in a hot vintage like 2017, Opus can deliver balance and sculpted elegance. Beautiful grip, creamy texture with a strikingly powerful tannic frame. As the wine stays in the glass the floral aromatics begin to bloom up. A brilliant Opus. 20 days maceration - around half what it would have been a decade ago. 54% native yeast, as part of their native yeast project. 5% Merlot and 1% Malbec complete the blend. Harvest spread out over September 5 to October 8, just before the fires, by which time they had less than 10% of the fruit still out on the vines. 3.7pH.

Luscious, nuanced, precise, love the power and cut glass quality to the tannins, crushed cherries, raspberry, sage, nectarine, black cherries, eucalyptus, long, drawn out and great quality. Harvest began on September 5, earlier than expected after a rainy start, but an exceptional August. 20 days skin contact, 100% new oak for ageing, Michael Silacci director.

Opus One had picked 91% of their fruit before the fires started in 2017, and only two lots were eliminated from consideration. The 2017 Opus One, bottled in July 2019, is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.5% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4.5% Merlot and 1% Malbec. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it slowly grows on the nose, revealing compelling notes of baked black cherries, mulberries, black raspberries, warm cassis and blackberry pie with nuances of spice cake, yeast extract, tapenade, licorice and dusty soil with a waft of wild sage. Medium-bodied, the palate has a lively skip in its step, featuring bags of juicy raspberry and cassis-laced fruit and a refreshing line, supported by ripe, plush tannins, finishing long and graceful.

Bright, almost forward plum and red currant fruit is sleek and fresh in feel. Not as dense as the other top vintages, but in proportion, with alder- and sandalwood-edged structure that’s fine-grained, along with a touch of floral lift through the finish that helps to offset the ever-so-slightly clipped feel that is this vintage’s marker. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Best from 2027 through 2037. - JM