The 2017 Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Spätlese (White Capsule) shows a nobly elegant, refined, bright and floral-scented slate bouquet with depth and remarkably fine or subtle intensity. On the palate, this is a finely textured, very elegant, piquant and salty dry Riesling with concentrated, juicy fruit and lingering salinity. It still has lots of ripe lemon flavors but is textured and with remarkable finesse. This dry Spätlese can compete with many so-called "GG" wines and will likely survive most of them. Tasted in March 2019. -SR

Apple and orange blossoms, chervil and cress anticipate the inner-mouth florality and incisive pungency that prevail on a subtly creamy, buoyant and lusciously apple- and pear-fruited palate. Green tea adds to the wine’s intriguing pungency. The vibrantly lingering, bell-clear finish introduces mouthwatering salinity, wet stone, and a stimulating alliance of fruit skin tang with fruit seed piquancy. -- David Schildknecht