The very young and tender 2017 L'Etoile Vin Jaune comes from a year marked by frost; but there was less frost in l'Etoile than in other places, and the Savagnin suffered less than the Chardonnay. It comes from Les Baudes Haut, planted in 1988 on gray marl and limestone with fossil soils. After the frost, it was fairly warm, and the harvest was quite early. The style of the 2017s is finer and more elegant than the 2018s, a character that also transcends the finest Vin Jaunes, like this one from Montbourgeau. The nose is complex, with a mixture of walnuts, spices, iodine and peat, hints of mushrooms and a balsamic and medicinal touch. It has a lively palate, with vibrant minerality, effervescent acidity and a long, dry and almost salty finish. It's pungent and powerful with 15% alcohol through evaporation during the long aging in barrel but also with concentrated acidity that provides balance and freshness. Only 500 bottles were produced. - LG

More evolved than the 2016, the 2017 Vin Jaune L’Étoile performs well. Vivid curry, walnut, bread dough and hay are all lined up. Candle wax and white mushrooms add more complexity. Full-bodied and concentrated, the generous 2017 is a warming and gentle Vin Jaune that checks out with nutty hints on the elongated finish. It can be enjoyed right out of the gate. - NG