The very complex nose of flint, dried pear, Amalfi lemon and fresh ginger pulls you inexorably into this super focused and racy Corton-Charlemagne that is still tightly wound. Wonderful silky texture at the very long crushed stone finish. So much energy and vitality it should age very well. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

At just four years of age, the 2017 vintage is a model of elegance. The aromas are less overt and more well-integrated. Ripe pear fruit with hints of fresh dominate, and the oak, while present, is not prominent. There is still a suggestion of butter here, and hints of lemon peel and hay. The texture is silky and refined; there is more freshness, less power, and less length. The alcohol seems very balanced (13%), and the wine is much more approachable now.

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is aging with real grace, unwinding in the glass with notes of sweet citrus oil, crisp green apple, white flowers, pastry cream and vanilla, framed by a deft touch of reduction. It is medium to full-bodied, ample and incisive, with a satiny attack that segues into a pure, layered mid-palate animated by racy acids, concluding with a precise, saline finish.- WK

Clear pale yellow. The nose has some of the classical stony feel of the appellation, backed by a trace of stony reduction. Quite weighty, with fruit that was picked fully ripe (so the reductive note is important) and offering quite a lot behind. A bit of a blunt instrument at this stage but with a further up-side to come.

The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a little SO2 to address on the nose, though behind it are pretty, floral aromatics with plenty of fruit. The palate delivers a tangy entry and fine acidity. Lightly spiced with sour lemon toward a finish that does attenuate slightly and leaves you wanting more. I ended up liking this more than I did on first acquaintance. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-les-Beaune. - By Neal Martin on July 2021