This grows at an eight-acre parcel at the base of the hill in Thorins, where the soil is deeper and holds more water than in the vineyards on the slope. While hail severely cut back the 2017 crop, the fruit that remained created a formidable wine. It cascades with fruit up front, before the tannins tighten around all that floral intensity. Then, with air, it opens further, yielding scents of figs, plums and strawberries, still tight, but the racy fruit flavors last. Decant the bottle if you open it now, to serve with roast squab and wild mushrooms.

A small harvest because of hail has produced this richly concentrated wine. Dense tannins and impressive black fruits are layered with acidity and a tensely structured character. The wine should be aged further to reveal its full panoply of flavors. Drink from 2022. ROGER VOSS

Elegantly textured, with glossy tannins encasing raspberry coulis and ripe cherry notes infused with black tea, orange zest, licorice and sleek mineral details. A serious wine that should age well. Drink now through 2030. 125 cases made, 50 cases imported. — GS