Subtle, almost cooling smoke spreads over the red-fruited aromas of this wine. The same subtle game is played on the slender, smooth but toned body, where tart red cherry and berry bathe in distant woodsmoke. Concentration is there but unobtrusive: this wine glides like silk. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

A relatively high-toned nose flashes notes of various red berries, rose petal and earth hints though once again there is a background touch of reduction that should dissipate with age. The mouth feel of the medium-bodied and muscular flavors is again nicely sleek with good detail and power both present on the stony, long and balanced youthfully austere finale where a touch of wood appears.

The 2017 Volnay Les Pitures ler Cru has a lively floral bouquet, but there is some VA here that blurs the edges, and some underripeness. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and lightly spiced, tart red fruit. White pepper and clove appear toward the finish, which tapers slightly and feels rather bitter. Still, this should give a decade's worth of drinking pleasure. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting. • By Neal Martin on September 2021