A heady, tropical touch of passion fruit clings to the more forward citrus notes on the nose of this wine. Lemon and tangerine notes play on the svelte, linear palate. This is totally refreshing and enlivening, with an almost electric lemon verve. Lovely now; sure to evolve. Drink 2018–2030. ANNE KREBIEHL MW

(92+) Alzinger's 2016 Ried Loibenberg Riesling Smaragd displays warm, ripe and intense Riesling fruit that is perfectly intermixed with coolish, smoky-mineral flavors. On the palate, this is a pure, fresh, mineral, beautifully linear and finessed Riesling that reflects the cooler part of the Loibenberg. The finish remains fresh, shows nice grip and salinity as well as the classic fruit concentration of a cooler vintage. A beautiful Loibenberg that is more generous and round compared to the corresponding Steinertal that is more built on freshness and grip! Tasted in July 2017, one week after the bottling. -Stephan Reinhardt