A delicious rarity, this wine grows across a small road to the north of Clos de Vougeot, where the resident monks planted the site to white grapes. The Boisset family, which now owns the parcel and farms it under biodynamics, dates that original planting to 1110. The soil is different here than at the family’s neighboring pinot noir parcel in Clos de Vougeot, the topsoil lighter in color, over pink conglomerate rock from the Oligocene era (see W&S, October 2012 for a story on Côtes de Nuits whites by Jasper Morris, MW). This 2016—mostly chardonnay, with some pinot gris and blanc—has the ripeness and depth of a wine from a great site, concentrated in its savory tension, lasting on floral complexity that hints at botrytis. The stony, mineral character holds for minutes on the breath, tight and pretty awesome.

Smoke and toast aromas mingle with flavors of lemon, apple, vanilla and mineral in this sleek white. Balanced, offering a lingering mineral element on the long finish. Gains harmony with air, so decant now or cellar short term. Best from 2020 through 2026. — B.S.