This extraordinary wine has barely evolved since its release. It still shows a very light lemon-yellow colour and youthful notes of lemon, green apple, acacia flowers, mineral and oak spice, all still enveloped in a smoky reductive shimmer. The texture is robust, with bright acidity, intense concentration and superb length. The grapes come from the two Coche parcels in Perrières-Dessus. Only just barely beginning its evolution and will probably last another 30-40 years.

The 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is the most distinctive wine in the range, unfurling in the glass with notes of lemon oil, crushed chalk, tart green apple, dried white flowers and struck flint. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegantly satiny and searingly intense, with tangy acids, huge concentration and the pronouncedly mineral, stony signature that always seems to mark out this bottling. Along with Genevrières, Coche's parcel in Perrières was largely spared by the 2016 frosts. Given its utterly classic profile, a dozen years' patience is advised.- WK