This intense red is saturated with macerated plum, black cherry, black currant, violet, iron and spice aromas and flavors, with a rich texture wrapping around the refined tannins. Distinctive and expressive, this remains fresh and focused through the long, complex aftertaste. Best from 2023 through 2045. — B.S.

The 2015 Pian di Conte Brunello Riserva has focused and concentrated aromatics of candied black cherry, black licorice, fresh tobacco, and forest floor. The palate is supple and ripe, with blackberry, balsamic, and cedar, and modest acidity. Pian di Conte is only produced in the best vintages from the highest selection of grapes. It was aged for three years in French and Slavonian oak barrels and only 3000 bottles were produced. Enjoy 2021-2031.

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Pian di Conte (with 6,600 bottles made) offers a heavier and more oak-driven style with ripe cherry fruit, soft tannins, spice, smoke, tar and road paving. It fits its Riserva designation squarely, but in truth, I prefer the more lifted and lighter approach taken by Talenti's two 2016 Brunello releases. Those wines both show greater clarity of fruit to my palate. However, this quality is nothing to sneeze at. This is a proud, shapely and well-crafted Brunello with sweet plum, cherry and blackberry on the close. Those sweet fruit nuances are followed by spicy cedar and campfire ash.

French oak, forest floor, new leather and camphor aromas take shape on this powerfully structured, concentrated red. Despite the muscular build, it also has a surprising finesse, delivering fleshy black plum, cherry marinated in spirits, vanilla and licorice framed in enveloping, velvety tannins. Drink 2023–2028. KERIN O’KEEFE

Riccardo Talenti crafts this Riserva from four plots of 30- to 40-year-old vines surrounding the estate. They are all predominantly southwest-facing at 400 metres on sandy loams with large stones. Still a bit wound up in its wood, it takes time to divulge its dried cherry, sweet spice and red liquorice aromas. Traces of coffee waft throughout, while an energetic succulent juiciness offsets plump fruit, and assertive, dry tannins on the backend give structure and shape. Red plum and sweet thyme linger on the rather warming finish.