One of the firmer, more masculine wines in the cellar, the brooding bouquet opens with notes of cassis, dark plum, rich soil and graphite, the prelude to a taut palate with a substantial chassis of tannin and acidity. A vin de garde that will need a dozen years in the cellar.

(91-93 points) The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru les Santenots comes from 2.1 hectares of vine that Nicolas treats as three different cuvées before blending them together. This is completely de-stemmed as usual. It has an attractive bouquet that shows more class than the other premier crus, with scents of crushed violets, black cherries, blackcurrant and iodine. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent entry, vibrant and lively with crisp acidity and chalky tannin that leads towards a sensual and opulent finish that is beautifully controlled. This is the best Volnay that Nicolas has produced in 2015.- NM

(93+ points) Dark red with ruby tones, with the color coming from iron and limestone in the soil, according to Rossignol. Sexy scents of red raspberry, spices and tobacco. Wonderfully vibrant and delineated, particularly for Santenots, showing a fine-grained texture and terrific inner-mouth lift to its flavors of raspberry, dried flowers and spices. Serious depth here, as well as considerable dusty tannins to be absorbed. The Cailleret is for spring and summer, says Rossignol, while this wine is for fatty, spicier foods in fall and winter. - By Stephen Tanzer on January 2018