Restrained, citrusy and stony, this shines with freshness, showing lime peel, garden peas and chalky minerality alongside salted butter and subtle whiffs of pastry. Light-bodied and zesty with long, fine bubbles. The tense, tight palate is leafy and almost phenolic with grip and substance yet balanced in the mineral finish. Drink or hold. Aldo Fiordelli Senior Editor

The Henriot Brut vintage always represents fine value, and the latest release – with more than eight years ageing on lees in the house's cellars – arrives from the sunny, broad 2015 vintage. It's a relatively restrained, discrete and medium-bodied take on the vintage, with flavours of green pear, apricot and honey, a light herbal streak and an integrated, ripe fruit skin bitterness adding a touch of grip. Like many 2015s this will do as well at the table as for an aperitif.