An intense version, yet reticent, hesitating to fully unlock the floral, apple, lemon and mineral aromas and flavors today. Builds in intensity to a long, pure finish of lemon, stone and spice. Best from 2020 to 2032. From France. — B.S.

The most obviously powerful, extrovert premier cru in the Leflaive cellars this year, with an expressive bouquet of apple, pear, yellow stone fruit, tangerine oil and white chocolate; the prelude to a deep, intense, even rich wine which cannot quite match the elegance of the Pucelles but makes a more immediate impact.

The 2015 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes is another terrific bottling from this famous domaine, opening in the glass with a classic bouquet of apple, pear, lime, grapefruit pith and almond cream. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, glossy and deep at the core, its great concentration and chewy extract underpinned by succulent acids, its finish pure and precise. In style, Combettes tends to nod to Bâtard-Montrachet, but like this year's Bâtard, this remains beautifully controlled and poised despite its undeniable mid-palate heft. - William Kelley