A picture of power and restraint, this white evokes peach, melon, lemon cake and stone flavors. Turns more elegant, gliding to a lingering conclusion. Cuts a swath of lemon and mineral notes on the extended aftertaste. Best from 2021 to 2032. From France. — B.S.

(92-95 points) As is often the case this evidences a similar aromatic profile to that of the Pucelles and in particular with respect to the honeysuckle character. While there is a bit more size, density and mid-palate volume to the middle weight plus flavors they manage to retain the same heightened sense of refinement and particularly so on the sneaky long and focused finish. This is potentially really fine juice.

As Eric Remy sagely observes, sometimes the personality of Bienvenues nods to the power of Bâtard to the south and sometimes to the elegance of Pucelles to the north. In 2015 it is the similitude of the latter which is the most striking. A lovely bouquet of white peach, tangerine oil, crème pâtissière and acacia blossom precedes a powerful, complete palate with beautiful balance, texture and concentration through the long, grippy, mineral finish.

The 2015 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive is excellent and will drink very well with only a few years in the cellar. The bouquet is deep, pure and complex, wafting from the glass in a blend of apple, pear, tangerine, beeswax, chalky soil tones, almond, spring flowers and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and still fairly primary in personality, with a fine core, sound framing acids and lovely focus and grip on the long, perfectly balanced finish.

94+ The 2015 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is showing very well, opening in the glass with a reticent but detailed bouquet of fresh pear, white peach, tangerine oil, spring flowers, pastry cream and a delicate framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and effortlessly complete, with succulent acids, elegantly glossy textural impact and understated persistence on the finish. This cuvée is beautifully balanced and full of energy, but it has definitely closed down after bottling and will demand five years in the cellar at the very minimum before it begins to expatiate. Matured in 20% new oak and bottled under Diam 30. - William Kelley