98+ The 2014 G-Max seems to add an extra dimension of complexity and exotic nuances to the nose and palate, in comparison to the utterly superb lineup of Grosses Gewächs bottlings that preceded it at our tasting, though I do not really know how to put this difference into the description of the wine. The stunning bouquet is a blend of tangerine, pink grapefruit, a very, very complex base of limestone minerality, orange peel, a hint of cumin, wild yeasts and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and bottomless in the mid-palate, with great refinement, seamless balance, ripe acids and a very, very long, nascently complex and supremely elegant finish. What a great wine in the making!

A dreamy masterpiece for this very challenging vintage, with so many delicate floral nuances and citrus aromas (everything from lemon blossom to freshly grated zest). Medium-bodied with a very long, racy and pointed finish. Drink or hold. At the Keller G-Max vertical tasting. - Stuart Pigott

From the oldest vines, the 2014 Riesling G-Max has a very subtle, fresh and precise aroma that is clearly affected from limestone terroir; it shows some herbal flavors such as thyme. Clear, piquant and juicy on the palate, this is a power station in terms of energy. This medium to full-bodied dry Riesling is full of drive and freshness, and shows a great purity and endless salinity with bright, juicy fruit aromas. The G-Max is a bit richer and more powerful on the palate than the Abtserde, but also needs more years to develop the purity and finesse of the former. - SR

This leads with surprisingly but by no means unpleasantly herbal and weedy aromatic intensity allied to peat-like smokiness, chalk dust and penetratingly high-toned suggestions of cassis and sloe berry distillate. “I am not for the faint of heart!” it seems to be warning. “It smells like the soil of the site,” insists Keller. The expansive, subtly silky palate is lush but bright, with the herbal pungency and dark berry piquancy that were signaled in the nose embedded in a diverse matrix of white peach, lime and turnip. The finish here nearly explodes with mouth-shaking energy, conveying wild herbal intensity, chalky impingements and a smoldering, peaty underlying earthiness, without losing focus or neglecting its obligation to refresh as well as enliven. - DS