The 2014 Chardonnay Brut Réserve is pure Chardonnay from old and also grafted vines in Bockenheim and the Bürgel grand cru. Vinified in 76% stainless steel and 24% barriques and bottled in April 2015, it was disgorged in January 2023. This lemon-colored sparkling wine opens with an intense and really chalky Chardonnay bouquet that indicates complexity depth and finesse as well as concentration and perfect fruit ripeness. On the palate, this is a rich yet stringent and even pure, very saline and persistent sparkling wine with great complexity, length and tension. The acidity here carries the wine to a long and complex, salivating finish and gives this Réserve spectacular aging potential. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2023. -SR

The 2014 Brut Chardonnay Réserve was grown on gravel and loam soils, with 24% of the base wines fermented in barrique. Stone and lemon are almost austere on the nose, promising strait-laced clarity that absolutely follows on the palate. This is taut, bright and dew-fresh. There are no frills at all, just beautifully streamlined freshness, citric briskness, stony depth and clear-cut elegance. The creamy, fine mousse softens the undoubted impact, as does that well-judged smidgeon of oak richness. This is supremely elegant, slender, profound and really incisive. Blanc de Blancs lovers listen up, this has life ahead of it. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: February 2023. -- Anne Krebiehl MW