This vintage was the last in recent history to be harvested in October. The bright yellow 2013 Champagne Blanc de Blancs is layered and decadent, with aromatics of fresh pastry cream, candied lemon, and almond pastry. Custard-like and bright, it’s medium to full-bodied, refined, and focused, with an elegant, pinpoint, pillowy mousse. The nose is so appealing, decadent, and sweet and the palate focused, tense, and appealing now. The saltiness and mouthwatering citrus oils are bright on the palate, with fabulous energy that lifts and lasts long on the finish. It’s a stunning wine from Vilmart for the ages. Stony and mouthwatering, it feels like it can age without a problem for decades to come. Drink 2025-2055.

The 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Blanches Voies remains one of the finest wines ever made at Vilmart. Super-classic and vertical, with striking energy, the 2013 is once again so impressive. Lemon confit, passion fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper and tangerine peel are some of the notes that build over time. The 2013 offers a captivating mix of intense, ripe fruit and bracing mineral notes, the results of a year defined by a long growing season and an October harvest. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: April 2021. - Antonio Galloni

With additional time following disgorgement, Vilmart’s 2013 Blanc de Blancs Les Blanches Voies, disgorged in April 2021 with a dosage of four grams per liter, continues its glacial evolution. It unwinds in the glass with an expressive bouquet of lemon oil, nashi pear and white flowers mingled with toasted bread, almonds and a hint of Tahitian vanilla. Medium- to full-bodied, ample and incisive, it is built around a crisp core of fruit and chalky structure, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. Possessing abundant energy, it appears destined to be a long-distance runner. Readers will recall from my earlier writing that this rendition was matured for 10 months in entirely new barrels from Tonnellerie Rousseau. -Kristaps Karklins

This is like white Burgundy, with finely detailed bubbles. Opulent and creamy while expanding on the palate yet refined, refreshing and graceful throughout. Offers a long and persistent range of white peach, apple, vanilla and toasted hazelnut notes, with savory hints of quinine and salinity echoing on the finish. Disgorged April 2021. Drink now through 2043.