Very intense aromas of ripe dark fruit with plums and cherries, intermingled with aged meat, warm stones and sweet, dried-wood nuances. The concentrated palate has a suave and plush core with tannins building in impressive layers to hold a long, flavorful finish. Drink or hold.

Delicately floral, the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva slowly awakens in the glass, coy at first, with a subtle mix of mint leaf and dried strawberry. Further coaxing brings out a seductive darkening effect, as the fruit evolves to black cherry, complicated by a whiff of incense, sage and spiced cedar. This is a model of purity, with textures of pure silk and polished red berry fruits that flood the palate. A burst of zesty acidity and sour citrus adds tension but also a sense of boundless energy. Fine-grained tannins emerge as the 2013 flexes its structural muscle, leaving a tart cranberry crunchiness and savory herbal tones to resonate. There are still many years, possibly a decade or more, of positive maturity in store for patient collectors. -- Eric Guido

Rose, wild berry, camphor and a whiff of exotic spice float out of the glass along with a hint of new leather. Radiant and loaded with finesse, the taut, elegantly structured palate delivers juicy red cherry, strawberry compote, baking spice and licorice while fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity provide balance and support. Drink 2021–2035. KERIN O’KEEFE

(95+ points) Initially closed and shy, the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva needs a little extra time in the glass before it starts to shine. The wine is made according to a very classic blueprint that prizes delicate primary fruit freshness, fully integrated tannins (nudged forward by Slavonian oak casks) and bright acidity. Fruit for this wine is sourced from 20-year-old vines that deliver the added extract and concentration worthy of a Riserva expression. This wine is impeccably balanced and radiant. It drinks beautifully straight out of the gate, however, it has the natural DNA to assure a graceful aging future. Some 12,000 bottles were made.-ML

From the Fuligni estate’s oldest vines on Montalcino’s eastern slope, this is an elegant Riserva, with complex notes of roasted mushroom and tobacco leaf gained during three years in large Slavonian casks. Its saturated flavors of dark cherry and red berry maintain a lightness and elegance despite the firm, ferrous tannins, the wine built for extended aging.