This is an extraordinary, hand-crafted Champagne with aromas of strawberries, spice, dried apples, clementines and subtle bread dough. Dried oranges, too. Full-bodied, yet so tight, compact and powerful with a solid core of fruit and a finish that goes on forever. 90% pinot noir and 10% chardonnay, all from the village of Ay and fermented and aged in new wood for 15 months. Then aged in bottle. Superb structure and complexity. One for the cellar.

The bouquet is simply sumptuous with hints of mint and anise, overlying its 'al dente' or slightly crunchy white fruit, along with an enticing grace note of gentle spices. On the palate, the texture is fleshy, almost creamy, but perfectly balanced with remarkable overall precision, and enlivened by the stream of very fine bubbles. A great Champagne that manages the rare feat of having a style that is both vinous and delicate. 100% provenance from Aÿ. 100% new oak barrels. 90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay. Only 5,000 bottles produced. Dosage: 6g/L, disgorged April 2020. Drinking Window 2025 - 2040

Revisited after an additional year in bottle, the 2012 Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Argonne continues to show brilliantly, unwinding in the glass with notes of golden orchard fruit, dried citrus peel, tarte tatin, warm spices, walnuts and toasted bread. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's vinous and multidimensional, with superb concentration, racy acids and a delicate pinpoint mousse. Seamless and integrated, it's still an infant and will reward further bottle age. - William Kelley