Mind-bending aromas of red licorice, spices, bark and dark fruits. Yet reserved and balanced. The palate is phenomenal with compact fruit and polished tannins. It goes on for minutes. 62% merlot and 28% cabernet franc. This is the second vintage of Jacques Thienpont in St. Emilion with 7 hectares near Troplong Mondot. It’s stunning. The onwer of Le Pin.

(NM91-93 points) The L’If is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc from Jacques Thienpont, who bought the estate in 2010. Matured in 30% new oak (decreased from the first vintage under Jacques) it has a lovely candied ripe, racy bouquet with bright red and black fruit intermingled, fine minerality showing through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a tensile entry, crisp acidity, good structure and a savoury notes just towards the finish. This has great potential.

Delivers a gorgeous array of violet, plum sauce, melted black licorice and steeped blackberry fruit, lined with subtle ganache and fruitcake notes. Long and fleshy through the finish, with a lovely graphite accent carrying all the components. Very pure, with a lovely mouthfeel. Best from 2016 through 2024. 833 cases made. –JM

Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux tasting. The 2012 Château L'If from Jacques Thienpont and Fiona Morrison has a broody, introspective bouquet that needs encouragement from the glass. Although it is tightly coiled, it feels well defined and the oak is nicely embedded into the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy dark plum and blackberry fruit laced with graphite and tobacco. Masculine compared to its peers, this is another wine that will require long-term ageing. There is a lot to admire considering that the couple had only recently taken over the running of the property. Tasted January 2016. - Neal Martin