Always a light, ethereal style of wine, this is also very fresh and still young. It will age with its taut minerality from the Chardonnay in the blend. A softer background will become toasty over the next few years. The vintage date on this bottle is 200 years after the foundation of this producer. Drink from 2021. ROGER VOSS

A classic style of Champagne, intricately blended, this presents elegant flavors in a way that’s easier to drink than to describe. Is the depth coming from the cherry fruit, both savory and ripe? From the mineral structure that restricts that fruit, or the Cognac-like note of spice that may originate from the dosage? There was a time when no one would ask, and this wine is a happy outcome of the days when the big houses ruled.