As in several recent vintages just above the limit of residual sugar for legal Trockenheit but plenty dry-tasting, Busch’s 2010 Riesling Vom Roten Schiefer displays ripe nectarine and peach, making for a more welcoming and succulent performance than that of the corresponding grey slate bottling. Not only crushed stone but also a red slate-typical hint of smokiness – along with a brown spices and a nip of pepper-cress – inflects an invigorating, satisfyingly juicy and persistent finish, setting up a genuinely vibratory sense of interactivity. This should prove delectably versatile over at least the next half dozen years.- DS