Beautiful pure colour with the all-important green tint. There is a little bit of attractive gunflint reduction which soon clears away to reveal the true wine beneath. There is exceptional elegance to this, very pure, floral wine, light on its feet for this theoretically full-bodied vintage. There are some lemon citrus notes emerging alongside the fruit. Scintillating finish, dancing almost daintily.

The 2009 Meursault is similarly rich and tropical, but also comes across as quite young next to the 2002, which is an ever-present reminder of how these wines can age. Although the 2009 is gorgeous, if I owned it, I would try to give it more time in bottle. -AG

The 2009 Meursault Villages is drinking brilliantly, wafting from the glass with a beautiful nose of preserved citrus, crisp peach, nougat and honeysuckle. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, layered and elegantly textural—glossier and more sweetly sun-kissed than the 2008 drank alongside it but bright and precise nonetheless, with beautiful energy and delineation on the finish. Given its profile, I suspect this was Coche's bottling from Vireuils of Luchets rather than Narvaux, but he makes no indication on the label. -WK