Putting my nose in the glass of the 2007 El Puntido Gran Reserva transported me to the classical Riojas from yesteryear. The wine has a fully developed nose with all the textbook descriptors of a good aged Rioja—forest floor, cigar ash, cold bonfire, truffle, cherries in liqueur, blonde tobacco, spices and iodine. But this is a classical Gran Reserva that has something that was not that traditional, and it comes from a single vineyard and matured in brand new French oak barrels for 28 months. But time in bottle has polished it (it was bottled in June 2010, almost nine years ago); the tannins are mostly resolved and it's nicely textured. It has what I love about the best red wine—it's salty rather than sweet, there is no room for sweetness here, and it's sapid and tasty and has great balance and freshness. This is developing at a very slow pace and should continue doing so for a very long time. A great Gran Reserva in the making. Only 5,000 bottles were produced from 2007, a very cold vintage, when the grapes were harvested the last three days of October, and it snowed the first of November! - LG

A much smaller production that was aged longer (28 months) in new French oak, the 2007 El Puntido Gran Reserva comes from the same vineyard as the El Puntido but is a parcel selection. Blackcurrants, plums, smoked earth, incense, and violet notes all emerge from this elegant, silky, beautifully polished wine that's full-bodied, has fine tannins, no hard edges, and a great finish. It has power, but this is more about finesse and elegance.

Currant, licorice and cocoa flavors are remarkably fresh in this big, firm red. Muscular tannins are a bit grippy, but balsamic acidity keeps this lively. Shows the aging potential of the modern style, even in a challenging vintage. Drink now through 2024. – TM