Cellar Selection. This new release from a great vintage for Chardonnay in Champagne is a perfect blanc de blancs, showing a wealth of intensity from the crisp, chalky, mineral tones to the perfumed apple notes. The aromas hint at developing toastiness that adds depth and complexity. The wine is still young and it will age for years. Drink from 2020.

No doubting the pedigree or provenance, this opens with wet chalk and oyster shell notes, and there are aromas of dried yellow flowers and white mushrooms, white chocolate and lemon citrus as well as a refined array of fresh pastry. The palate has power with ripe lemon-drenched peach fruits. This is generous and gives plenty for Salon at this young stage with really succulent fruit. Builds white almond biscuit and toasted spices through the finish. Drink now.

The 2006 Brut Blanc De Blancs Le Mesnil is still closed and backward, but wow, it has incredible potential. Showing the more ripe, concentrated style of the vintage in its orchard/citrus fruits and chalky minerality, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, brilliant purity, elegant, bright acidity, and a big finish. It’s a big, layered, structured Salon that needs to be forgotten for 4-5 years, but it’s going to drink beautifully for two decades.

The 2006 Salon (Edition 2019) shows a decidedly tropical, exotic profile that is unusual for Salon. Passion fruit, mango, apricot jam and wild floral notes race across the palate as this sumptuous, radiant Salon shows off its alluring personality. Vinous, textured and flamboyantly ripe, the 2006 is one of the most hedonistic Salons in recent memory. I have had slightly fresher examples, but the style of the wine is always the same. Dosage is 5.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: January, 2019. -- Antonio Galloni

The 2006 Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil Brut is quite tangy and reserved by the standards of this sunny, demonstrative vintage. Offering up aromas of smoke, toasted bread, orange oil, mocha and confit lemon, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with racy acids and a concentrated, surprisingly structured mid-palate. Concluding with a long and gently empyreumatic finish, this is a fine success. This bottle was disgorged in January 2019. - William Kelley

The creamy mousse of this graceful Champagne caresses the palate like cashmere, carrying a beautiful range of glazed nectarine, chopped almond, pastry and candied ginger flavors framed by vivid acidity. Seamless, with a long, lasting finish accented by minerally chalk and saline notes. Drink now through 2031. 1,000 cases imported. –AN

On the initial attack, this shows very exotic aromas of tropical fruit and pungent floral aromas with an edge that suggests white chocolate. On the palate, the wine is supple, and the texture is velvety and fine, with a finesse that belies the extra-brut dosage. Soft and lacking definition at this point in its evolution, this is shaping up to be an early-maturing vintage of Salon. Disgorged: early 2016. Dosage: 5g/L.