Love the colour of this, deep damson, generous and enticing. The tannins are just astonishingly finessed and generous, chocolate, cedar, cocoa bean, so well constructed, combining depth to the fruit with feather-pillow tannins. Clearly young, decades ahead of it, but this is already confident and enjoyable, effortlessly standing out from this lineup of exceptional wines. It lacks the weight and concentration of the 2009 or 2010 of Comtesse, but it's showing extremely well, and seems to be gaining in power. 50% new oak.

The Château Pichon-Lalande 2005 that was so divisive at birth but as I expected right from the beginning, this is maturing into a lovely Pauillac. It offers compelling tobacco and graphite scents on the nose, belying the Merlot content of this blend, reserved at first but opening gloriously in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin and well-judged acidity. There is an effortlessness quality about this Pichon-Lalande. ‘tis not the most powerful or decadent Pauillac but its is very sophisticated and refined.

A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2005 Pichon Lalande is deep garnet-brick in color. It prances out with a gorgeous perfume of rose oil, licorice, and chocolate-covered cherries, over a core of warm cassis, redcurrant jelly, and sassafras. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers exquisitely soft, silky tannins and seamless freshness to frame the elegant black and red fruit layers, finishing long and perfumed. Tasted at the Chateau, it's amazing how much this wine has woken up since I last tasted it about a year ago, and it still seems to have a lot more left to give!

In recent years, Pichon Comtesse has developed an elegance all its own, with great style, smoothing out the real intensity of the wine. This 2005 continues in that tradition, a spice, fruity wine, which has restraint as well as hidden power.

What a nose on this, with orchids and currants, this is very perfumed and pretty. Full-bodied, with bright and lively acidity. Rose petals and citrus fruit on the palate give way to a long and intense finish. Wait and see where this goes.

The 2005 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has been an inconsistent performer from bottle over the years. Retasting at the château at the 20-year stage, Nicolas Glumineau poured the wine at 9.30 am and then repoured the same bottle over dinner that same day. This proved how vital it is to afford the 2005s plenty of aeration, because the second was far superior. Vivacious red fruit fills out on what had initially appeared to be a rather atypically weak nose, accented by cedar and touches of wild mint. The palate is well balanced, fresh and cohesive with decent weight on the finish. Bottles have been variable over the years, and I have meted out criticism myself. But I cannot deny that after 12 hours, this Pauillac is perhaps showing its true mettle. Perhaps the fault was never the wine, but the eagerness of us tasters to pour scorn before it had a chance to open? Tasted at the château. -- Neal Martin