The Forts de Latour was charming from the outset with its moderate concentration of blackcurrant fruit and its well-integrated evolution and notes of cedar and Havana cigar. A lively freshness and enough substance to carry it to a surprisingly long finish complement the first impression. The higher proportion of Merlot than in the grand vin (almost three times more) and lower percentage of new oak ageing seem to have made the wine more approachable at this age. Popular with the tasters, this wine was ranked first in its flight.

Deep red. Aromas of blueberry, plum, leather, tobacco and mocha. Sweet, plummy and pliant, with a creamy, fine-grained texture for the vintage. Very plush wine, richer than the 2006 and at least as long. Finishes with big but ripe tannins. - By Stephen Tanzer on May 2007

Latour's second wine is, as so often, on a level with many classed growths. In 2004, it is also a very faithful reflection of the vintage: fresh, lively and vital, with acidity and vibrant blackberry fruits very much up front. If not big, it is deliciously fresh and will develop well over five years. — Roger Voss

The estate’s second wine continues to go from strength to strength. The 2004 Forts de Latour (includes 75% Cabernet Sauvignon) reveals a deep ruby/purple hue, classic evolved cedary, lead pencil, and cassis characteristics, medium body, beautiful sweetness of fruit, and a more forward, evolved character than its big sibling. Enjoy it over the next 15+ years. Also tasted: 2004 Pauillac (87; $38.00)