he 2004 Romanée-Conti is magnificent, and shows more of the haunting transparency that is so evident in the Grands Echézeaux (but not found in any of the other DRC grand crus at this early stage). The bouquet is deep and wonderfully complex for such a young wine, offering up notes of raspberry, cherry and red plum, a bit of orange zest, duck, Oriental spices, pungent roses, great minerality and a touch of vanillin oak. Interestingly, the Romanée-Conti has eaten up much more of its new wood than either of the above two wines, and hence shows a much more silky young palate impression. On the palate the wine is full-bodied and ethereal, with a delicacy coupled to intensity that is very rare, and profound length and grip on the finish. The impression of the tannins here is very moderate, and the acids are succulent and well-integrated, leading to a very, very long and brilliantly balanced finish. This is a perfect marriage of the terroir of Romanée-Conti and the stylistic strengths of the 2004 vintage. Hence, a legend in the making.

A supremely beautiful if very reserved nose with a stunning mélange of spice notes floral notes particularly violets red and black berry fruit aromas plus nuances of earth game and smoke combine to perfectly complement the equally reserved pure and unbelievably precise and pure medium full flavors underpinned by sophisticated tannins and huge length. One of the aspects that I most admire about a great RC is that while other wines have class Romanée-Conti defines the term. The other aspect that I find to be perhaps the most remarkable of all is the wine's ability to aggregate attributes unlike any other. Like the '04 La Tâche this isn't the greatest vintage of Romanée-Conti I have ever tasted but it is one of the very finest in terms of the delicacy and harmony of expression.