The latest vintage in the NPU range to be released, 2004 saw cool spring conditions with a late bud-break, followed by a hot and dry July, a wet August and a warm, dry September. The fruit, a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, is sourced from six grand cru villages - Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Verzenay, Mailly and Bouzy. This sticks to the classic NPU formula of barrique-maturing the still wines for 10 months before assemblage, ageing the Champagne on its lees for 12 years before disgorgement, and minimal dosage. It's an intense, incredibly fresh wine with pillowy brioche supporting licks of ripe tangerine and stone fruit. The gentle wood structure is injected with plenty of saline drive, leading to a long, mineral finish. This is drinking superbly now but, judging by the older vintages, this should really show its colours in another three to five years. 26 barrels produced 7,119 bottles and 310 magnums. Disgorged September 2017. (Drink between 2020-2035)

This wine from a great Champagne vintage is at its peak. Poised between maturity and fruitiness, it reveals richness and texture. This is a dry Champagne, full of ripe white fruit and toast that mingle easily. Drink this wine now, although it can age for many years. ROGER VOSS

Rich, with a well-spiced range of pineapple pâte de fruit, toasted brioche, lemon thyme, crystallized honey and grated ginger notes, this vibrant version is firmed by racy, seamlessly integrated acidity, swathed in a satiny mousse. Long and mouthwatering, this is hard to stop sipping. Disgorged September 2017. Drink now through 2029. 385 cases made, 330 cases imported. — AN