This deep-garnet-colored wine has aromas of blackberry, black currant and olive tapenade. It is soft at first sip, and then rugged tannins build on the palate, ferrying flavors of dark plum, pomegranate, cocoa powder, thyme and orange zest that wend their way to a surprisingly bright finish. Drink through 2035. Mike DeSimone

With high production levels and affordable prices, Faustino crafts the wines in the winery, and in the best vintages its Faustino I shows all the qualities of the best gran reserva wines. In 2004, it was a resounding success. The wine is quite restrained, as if reconcentrated, then opens up on the palate, showing richness and depth, and finishing in a memorable way. A most recognisable style. (Drink between 2024-2039)

An extremely well-aged and understated Rioja, showing discreet complexity with plums, oranges, leather, dusty red berries and minerals. Juicy and bright on the palate with a zesty nature to the berry and orange citrus. Silky, taut tannins and a long yet elegant finish. Lots of finesse here, with almost pinot etherealness. Tempranillo, graciano and mazuelo from selected plots. 36 months aging, with American oak in use, too. Drinkable now, but can hold for another 10 years.

Aging gracefully, this harmonious red shows remarkable vibrancy and focus, with orange peel acidity and fine, taut tannins structuring a creamy mesh of baked cherry and sweet tobacco flavors. Accents of vanilla, milled white pepper and tar expand through the finish. Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo. Drink now through 2035. - AN