#6 Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese Zwischen den Seen offers quite a contrast to the #5, sublimating the obvious Scheurebe varietal character. Peach jam, lemon, honey, pure botrytis and mysteriously high-toned esters shimmer from the glass. The palate is bright and clear, impressively polished, creamy and viscous. There is an almost statuesque character to the wine, yet it is upliftingly bright and elegant. (We have descended from around 9.5% alcohol in the four previous wines to 8.5% here.) The peach jam obtains counterpoint from bitter suggestions of peach kernel. Layering of lemon flavors – candied, fresh, zesty pip – also offer complex counterpoint. Still, the overall effect here is not so blazingly bright and dynamic as in #5, yet there is a sedate underlying richness and peachy, nutty depth that leads to enormous length and intriguing hints as to where this will go in the future. #6, Kracher explains, was allowed the sort of leisurely evolution in tank and exposure to skin, lees and oxygen that typified winemaking in his grandfather’s day. - David Schildknecht