An old style Pauillac yet made with far more purity and richness than the estate's ancient vintages this broad-shouldered muscular classic wine exhibits a saturated purple color and sensationally dense rich concentrated cassis flavors that roll over the palate with impressive purity and depth. The wine is tannic and closed but powerful and rich. It appears to possess length and intensity similar to the 1996. This is a great young Pauillac. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025.

The 1995 Pontet Canet is another wine that I have not tasted for a number of years, this from magnum. The nose lacks the freshness of the Pichon Baron tasted alongside, coming across as high-toned with a little VA. The palate is better, with a sweet, slightly candied entry, bright cassis and blueberry and a fine, cohesive finish. This is drinking perfectly now and the aromatics do improve in the glass. Tasted at the 1995 Bordeaux off-line at Piccolino in London. - Neal Martin