At first glance, it may seem slightly older than it truly is, but given time and oxygen, it transforms into something truly magical. Round, layered, seductive — a dance of tertiary notes (dried fruits, leather, exotic spices) entwined with the freshness of blackberry, cassis, and cherry. Perfectly balanced acidity, silky tannins. This is a wine like a sensual dream — one you wish you could remain in forever and never see the end of pleasure. And the most beautiful part? It still has much time ahead — it will only grow wiser, deeper, and more fascinating.

A time of serious changes at Mouton, with Baron Philippe de Rothschild passing away in 1988 after having overseen seven decades worth of harvests, and his longtime winemaker Raoul Blondin retiring in 1989. It was also three years before the introduction of Petit Mouton under Baroness Philippine (even Aile d'Argent the white wine didn't arrive until 1991). Does all of this explain why the 1990 has suffered with its reputation from the beginning? Certainly it is far more mature at this 31-year-checkin than the others in the tasting, with strawberry and raspberry notes rather than the darker fruits that you more usually find in great Pauillac, with clear tertiary notes of tobacco, rust and woodsmoke. I had a better bottle of this in December 2020, and also in October 2018, so do expect bottle variation and you just might get lucky, but this was not the wine of the night. Label artist Francis Bacon, with one of his last works. Harvest 18 September to 3 October.